Mushrooms - Perfect on the Grill

There is nothing simple about these uncomplicated-looking fungi. For example, although they’re mostly water, they have more protein and vitamin B than most plants. For another, they manage to contribute both elegance and earthiness to any dish. They gratify many of us, too, with their almost total lack of calories. But they trick us, while cooking, with their sly habit of absorbing considerable amounts of butter, oil, or cream.

Choose mushrooms that are heavy for their size, with dry, firm caps and stems—nothing damp or shriveled, no dark or soft spots—and all close to the same size. If the gills are open, the mushrooms are more mature and their flavor will be stronger, and with a wild mushroom, this may be a plus. Open-gilled mushrooms should be used as soon as possible. To store, wrap unwashed mushrooms in a loosely closed paper bag or wrap loosely in paper towels. Leave packaged mushrooms unopened. Store on a refrigerator shelf, not in the crisper (too much moisture hastens spoilage), for 1 or 2 days.

Wipe mushrooms with a damp cloth to clean. Or, if they are truly grimy, rinse them quickly under cold running water and pat dry. Never soak fresh mushrooms—their delicate tissues absorb water. If desired, slice 1⁄8 inch off the bottom of the stems. If only caps are called for in a recipe, cut the stems off flush with the cap, but do not discard the flavorful stems. Either chop them fairly fine, toss them until lightly browned in a little butter, and add them to the dish or use within a day for making stock (except for shiitake stems).

Mushrooms go well with cream, lemon, garlic, black pepper, shallots, onions, cheese, peas, dill, chervil, parsley, tarragon, basil, oregano, and capers.